sporca citta

// dirty city

They all say Milano is dirty but I didn't notice any unusual levels of dirt. The sights are conveniently close together. Starting in the centre, you visit the huge Duomo. Its pale white stone blinds tourists in the sunlight, its interiors are refreshingly understated ‑ partly because most of the decoration is so far above your head that you can't see it properly. There are gargoyles, biblical figures, animals and decorations carved high on each pillar. Stained glass windows send shards of coloured light bouncing off each other, but the size, grey walls and sombre mood of the place leave a feeling of doom. Not the kind of place I'd like to go to worship.

The outside is far more interesting. For some strange reason there were empty bottles of water arranged in a blue, white and green path just outside the entrance. As usual there were men with little bits of string trying to get the tourists to hold something long enough to be pressured into buying it. I had a panino from a streetside café and a Chinese guy spoke to me in German because he thought I was from Austria, not Australia. His friend laughed at him and said "stupido!". It's not the first time someone has confused Australia with Austria. Perhaps it's my German‑in‑Italian accent that throws them.

I lingered in the main square for a while, trying to awake my travel weary senses so they could tell me how wonderful and exciting this yet‑another‑church was, before I gave up and headed for the Galleria.

The Galleria is one of Milano's famous landmarks. Once a crossroads, it was covered by a glass dome and now resembles the Queen Victoria Arcade of Melbourne, with ritzier stores and a giant McDonald's re-branded to match the surroundings. I took a couple of photos, skipped through and found the world famous La Scala Theatre at the other end.

Ok, I have been travelling for a long time now, and I'm somewhat harder to impress these days, but to me La Scala more closely resembles the Brisbane Hotel pre‑renovation than an internationally renowned theatre. The Maj on Hay St is much more interesting. In fact it was only the signs outside that alerted me to the building's location.

Trying not to look too disgusted, I went on into the Quadriletto d'Oro - Golden Quarter - Milan's famous fashion district. The most famous district of the world's most fashionable city, totally on the cutting edge. Giant careers have been made here, the biggest, best and most beautiful brands in the world line the streets. People wander the streets toting bags upon bags of the latest clothes. Famous models turn their coke-powdered noses up at the mere mortals who dare invade their territory. The criss-crossing streets echo with the squeals of delighted bargain hunters who consider anything designed by Tom Ford a bargain if it costs less than a grand. at least, that's how I imagine it is every month of the year except August. Yep, even Milan shuts down for Ferragosto. I shrugged, having had a vague expectation that I'd find Milan in this state.

Most of my photos of Milan are photos of shop windows and graffiti.