Monday, August 8, 2011

sopra tutto il mondo

//on top of the world

It was Sunday, the holy day; I ascended to the heavens.

From London, a flight to Turin. A bus to the train. A train to Ivrea. Another train to Pont Saint Martin. A bus to Gressoney la Trinite. Each town a little smaller and a little higher until finally a ten minute ride up a ski lift to a small mountainside bar called Punta Jolanda. Phill met me there and we embarked on the one hour hike up the mountain to Orestes Hutte. So here I am.

The Hutte is a ski retreat in the Italian Alps. The ski‑lift ride, an hour's walk below us, took me through the treetops and through the clouds. Now, as I glance up through the wide window I can look beyond the balcony to a small road, meandering as only mountain roads do down through the peaks. I can see snow adorning the mountainside, interrupting the grass that dances in the wind like ocean waves. A small blue lake twinkles in the triangle of the valley; beside it is a shed that houses the hydro electrics. The clouds are scarpering eastwards, the chill wind chasing them away to leave behind a vacant blue sky. The sun throws shadows through the rocks and there is barely a sound.

The Hutte is owned by my friend Phill's girlfriend and her family. Marta and her brother Emil run the place, with the help of various travellers, a cook, and Phill. In winter they cater to tourists and local skiers but in summer tourists are few, so I have my own room downstairs. The main room upstairs houses a small library and bar, with an outlook across the mountains.

As much as possible, they arekind to the environment here. In winter the food is stored in a concrete space that surrounds the house like a verandah: in summer the same space provides insulation. This summer has been the coldest and wettest that Marta can remember, but to a girl from Australia it is nevertheless beautiful.

After I arrived yesterday we sat around and chatted in various languages. Marta showed me a tea that changes colour as you brew it. First the water turns blue, then violet, then orange, yellow and finally settles on a muddy transparency. She said that while pretty, it doesn't taste like anything much at all.

Not to be outdone, the sun also put on a display, casting pink light across the sky as it went to bed at 9pm. In keeping with the colourful evening, the chef made an orange risotto (amazing) and we shared a local wine, swappped stories and laughed. Finally I went to bed around 11 and arose this morning to the bella vista I've described.

For the next few days I will meditate, do some yoga, increase the number of red blood cells in my body (thin air up here) and rest. Already life feels slow and the world is quiet.

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